Gunite Start-Up Procedures
Pool Start Up Services
The pool finish will start to hydrate immediately after mixing, with the majority of hydration taking place within the first 28 days. This critical time period is when a finish is most susceptible to staining, scaling and discoloration. Proper start-up procedures including timely brushing, constant monitoring and adjusting of the pool water is mandatory. The following recommended start-up method is based on procedures shown to produce the best aesthetic results. Due to unique local water conditions and environmental factors, parts of these recommended start-up procedures may need to be modified to protect the pool finish.
No one should be allowed in the pool until it is completely filled, water chemistry has been adjusted, and we have started up the pool pump.
Once the pool is built, we will begin filling it with water. Please keep a close eye on your pool and turn off the water once it reaches the middle of you skimmer. You do not want the pool to overfill or flood.
We will start up the pool equipment to filter the water and begin the curing process of the pool finish. We will want the pump to run for about 30 days, 24-7 and then you can adjust the pump time depending on the time of year. March-November 10-12 hours a day, December-February 4 hours a day.
We will start up your brand new pool and adjust the water chemistry.
If you have a salt water pool, we will leave the correct amount of salt for you to add after 30 days. Adding the salt earlier can damage the pool finish.
Once you have added the salt and the water temperature is over 60 degrees, your system will produce chlorine. During the fall or winter when the water temperature is below 60, you may need to keep a small amount of chlorine in your pool. Once the water temperature reaches about 60 degrees in the spring, the system will start producing your chlorine again.
Here are some of the steps that we will go over with your water chemistry.
For the first 30 days, test your water every 3 days with the simple test strips we provide.
It is extremely important to keep the PH and Alkalinity in check during the cure phase. PH will increase as the pool cures. You will need to reduce this by adding Muriatic acid so that the PH reading is in the low range of 7 – 7.2 Acid should carefully be added to the deep area of your pool. Do not pour directly over steps or shallow areas.
If your pool has a plaster or quartz finish, you will need to vigorously brush all surfaces with the steel brush we provide for the first 30 days. This helps in the curing process. Your pool surface is very delicate during the cure phase. Do not allow any lawn fertilizers or foreign material in the pool.
If your pool has a Pebble Tec or Pebble Sheen finish, you will only need to brush the pool a few times. This is done simply to knock loose any of the small pebbles that did not attach.
Make adjustments to your water per the directions on each container of chemicals.
Always dilute the chemicals in a bucket with water (water first) and never mix them together, before adding to the pool.
Pool chemicals are added directly to the pool except UV Block . This is added to the skimmer.
After 30 days, start testing your water once a week and make adjustments as necessary.
If you have a salt water pool, you will be making adjustments to your chlorine output a few times a year to dial in the proper range that is recommended.
Remember a crystal clear pool does not mean that the chemistry is correct. Testing and balancing the water each week will prevent corrosive water conditions that can damage your pool.
If you have a pool heater, do not turn it on for the first 30 days to allow the finish to cure properly.
Add water or drain water so that it is at the middle of the skimmer for proper surface cleaning.
Remove toys and floats after swimming so that the skimmers will not be blocked.